The beauty of making garments

by Carlie Ballard | June 28, 2014

Clothing for thought

by Carlie Ballard | June 28, 2014

Many of you may know that I am an active sustainable fashion advocate for change in the fashion industry. I don't just use a small workshop in India or handloom fabrics, or organic cottons, or one transeasonal collection because it all seems quite cool. I do it because it's an ingrained business value of my label.

Fashion is a catalyst for change and all of these processes ensure my label stands for building a stronger voice for sustainability in fashion - changing an industry deeply set in a model that is no longer viable in an ever changing and dynamic business environment is a movement gaining momentum.

Fashion is now a strong vehicle to wear your values - let's follow the lead of this one very inspiring brand I would like to introduce to you from Belgium.

Honest By by Bruno Pieters  - Is a fashion business model like no other. Their philosophy is to offer a garment with 100% transparency from the first button, it's origins, certifications and price through to the fabric, garment care label and beyond.

Their garments are manufactured with people, planet and animal welfare at top of mind too. I guess, however, the most controversial aspect of the Honest By model is the availability of information on the price of every component in the garment, it's wholesale mark up and retail mark up transparency.

This is a truly unique business model and one never done before on such detail. below I have shown a set of information available to any consumer looking at the Honest By website. 

This idea of allowing consumers to understand every aspect of the garment they are buying sets the tone of what's to come in the exciting industry of fashion. 

• Manufacturing details

  Product code: BPS015F2024C055W
  Product description: SLEEVELESS LINNEN WRAP DRESS 

  PATTERN
  Company: Honest by BVBA
  Design time: 14,5 working hours 
  Number of fittings: 3 

  GARMENT MANUFACTURING
  Company: Bewico
  Location: Ruiselede, Belgium
  Address: Bruggestraat 105 – 8755 Ruiselede - Belgium
  Owner: Mr Johan Christaens & Ms Coletter Bergez
  Since: 1956
  Number of employees: 18
  Cutting time: 33 min
  Assembly time: 205 min 
  Ironing: 10 min
  Amount of pieces made: 10 pieces
  Amount per size: 2 pieces

  THIS GARMENT IS 100% MADE IN EUROPE FOR HONEST BY.

   

• Price calculation

  Product code: BPS015F2024C055W Product description: SLEEVELESS LINNEN WRAP DRESS  FABRICS Fabric: black & ecru herringbone linen Price /Meter: 5,65 Euro/m Amount used: 1,9 m  Total: 10,74 Euro BIAS TAPE Bias tape: black 100% organic cotton  Price / Meter: 0,55 Euro/m Amount used: 0,8 Meter  Total: 0,44 Euro  ZIPPER Zippers: 100% recycled polyester tape & brass (nickel free)  Price /Piece: 0,3658 Euro Amount used: 1 piece  Total: 0,3658 Euro  SEWING THREAD Sewing thread: 100% organic cotton GOTS certified Price /Cone: 9,50 Euro Estimated cost: 0,5 Euro INTERFACING Fusible interfacing: black 100% Tencel Amount used: 0,30 Meter  Supplier does not wish to disclose the price for confidentiality reasons BRAND LABEL Brand label small:100% Polyester Price / Piece : 0,5864 Euro Amount used: 1 piece Total: 0,5864 Euro SIZE LABEL Size label small:100% Polyester Price /Piece : 0,035 Euro Amount used:1 piece Total: 0,035 Euro

  CARE LABEL + MADE IN LABEL Care label + made in label: 100% cotton Price: 0,74 Euro (for both labels) Amount used: 1 of each Total: 0,74 Euro SECURITY SEAL Security seal: 100% polystyrene  Price /Piece: 0,2 Euro Amount used: 1 piece Total: 0,2 Euro HANG TAG Hang tag: 100% FSC recycled  Price / Piece: 0,29 Euro Amount used: 1 piece Total: 0,29 Euro COTTON THREAD Cotton thread: 100% Cotton Price / Piece: 0,016 Euro/m Amount used: 0,3m Total: 0,0048 Euro SAFETY PIN Safety pin: 100% polystyrene Price / Piece: 0,03 Euro Amount used: 1 piece Total: 0,03 Euro TOTAL COST MATERIALS: 14,53 PATTERN COST Pattern development: 3,30 Euro MANUFACTURING COST Garment manufacturing: 45,00 Euro  DEVELOPMENT COST: This covers the cost of the development of the samples, such as pattern making and digitising.  Development: 7,72 Euro TRANSPORTATION COST Transportation: 8 Euro

  BRANDING COST Branding: 10 Euro TOTAL COST:  88,55 EURO WHOLESALE MARK UP: X 2,0 = 177,09 EURO The wholesale mark up covers a part of the Bruno Pieters studio costs such as staff, research, design, utility costs, transportation and office supplies. RETAIL MARK UP: X 2,0 The retail mark up covers a part of the Honest by e-shop costs such as purchasing of new collections, webshop operational costs, rent, insurance, communications, intellectual property rights, maintenance costs, legal and accounting costs and marketing.  HONEST BY RETAIL PRICE (excl. VAT): 354,19 EURO This price is applicable to non-EU customers. Import duty taxes apply.  HONEST BY RETAIL PRICE (incl. VAT): 428,57 EURO This price is applicable to EU customers only. VAT is included in this price.  NOTE: Due to a discount on the above price from our Sale Periods the final garment price appears different.    CHARITY 20% of the annual profit will be donated to various charities chosen by our collaborating designers.  NOTE: All prices are calculated per 1 item.

The makings of a tailored shirt

by Carlie Ballard | May 05, 2014

A classic tailored white shirt excites us to the core and is something the Carlie Ballard range will continue to feature in each of it's collections moving forward.

I wanted to share some fast facts on our Trailblazer shirt for you to ponder and appreciate everytime you button up and head out on your adventure.

It has 17 panels- 2 front panels, 1 back panel, 1 back yoke double layered, 1 collar band double layered, 1 reversible collar double layered, 2 pockets, 1 inner hidden placket, 2 sleeve straps, 2 sleeves, 2 sleeve cuffs, 2 sleeve cuff plackets. 

Our organic cotton is from Gujarat in West India where organic farming practices have reduced water consumption by up to 60% than traditional methods.

It is GOTS certified which means it has passed the many stringent global tests ensuring the absence of contaminants like nickel, lead, formaldehyde, amines, pesticides and heavy metals found in conventional cotton fabric.

And the bit we like the best, organic cotton farming is creating healthy and sustaianble farming work for Indian farmers.

Posted in organic cotton, trailblazer